Renovation Blog

Moving Date Finalised

Tue, 24 Apr 2012 01:30:00 GMT

Everything is taking shape with our fit-out at our new sales site at 377 New North Road in Kingsland.

All going well, we will be open for business there on Monday 21st May.

Unfortunately, we will be closed on Saturday 19th May, while we complete the shift. It will be a busy weekend for us all but everyone is excited about getting into the new premises.

In the meantime, it is business as usual so call us if you need advice or renovation materials.

Bungalow Switches now available

Wed, 16 May 2012 22:04:00 GMT

If you are looking for switches suitable for a 20th century character house and like the metallic look, then the Bungalow range of switches may be of interest. They are available in Polished Brass, Polished Chrome, Antique Brass as shown below right or Florentine Bronze as shown on the left.

We have developed a small range of timber switch blocks specifically designed for these attractive switches. They are available in Paint Quality and Rimu* as shown below.

*We use an imported version of Rimu, which is generally a little lighter in colour to NZ Rimu.

In the next few weeks we will have display boards for these products but in the meantime they are all available to view and purchase online.

Bungalow & Villa on the move

Wed, 14 Mar 2012 03:34:00 GMT

Those of you familiar with our site in Morningside will know that getting into us is not always easy. With more and more large deliveries coming to us in bigger trucks, it is sometimes hard for customers to get in to our car park. So we are going to split the factory from the sales operation in order to make it easier for customers to get in to us. Our new site in New North Road in Kingsland is still right in the middle of our key market and it has much more parking than where we are now. I will publish more news of this big development for us such as opening dates as more details get firmed up.

More hardware choices at B&V

Wed, 14 Mar 2012 03:16:00 GMT

We have now started to market the Tradco range of traditional door & window hardware. Tradco has possibly the widest range of styles and what's more most of them are available at short notice in a wide variety of finishes. So far the range has been well received by our customers as previously finishes such as Antique Brass & Antique Copper had long lead times. We have a good supply of brochures and most of the products are coded on our system. If you want a brochure sent out, call us or enquire from our website.

A Guide to Leadlight Windows

Wed, 14 Mar 2012 09:03:00 GMT

Leadlight windows are a distinctive feature of many of New Zealand’s older buildings. These range from the ornate windows found in churches and other public buildings, through to residential dwellings that are still present today.

Leadlight windows are typically found in dwellings that were designed and constructed within the bungalow and villa architectural periods. The degree of detail used in these designs would have depended on how affluent the property owners were at the time of construction.

Up to the end of the 19^th Century the villa was the most dominant housing style in New Zealand. Architecture in this period incorporated brightly coloured glass windows, which were some of the earliest leadlights used in New Zealand. The predominant leadlight designs leading into the 1900’s were Victorian and Edwardian.

The skills used to create beautiful leadlight windows are still present today. Using new technology to create glass in the traditional manner has enabled modern craftsmen to create authentic leadlight windows, which are custom made for the customer using a range of traditional or modern designs.

Bungalow & Villa have worked closely with Glassarts for many years and have a good working relationship which means that purchasing leadlight windows for your joinery is a hassle free experience.

For further information about the manufacture and design of leadlight windows see Glassarts at:

http://www.glassarts.co.nz

Improved Treatment for Handrails & Bottom Rails

Sat, 01 Oct 2011 02:46:00 GMT

All our exterior handrail profiles are now stocked in H3.2. The H3.2 treated product is easy to identify as it has the pale green 'tanalised' look. In addition to our wide range of stock handrail profiles, we can also machine custom profiles to your specification. Ask our sales team for more information.

Mouldings

Thu, 04 Aug 2011 03:35:00 GMT

As New Zealand's character homes evolved and changed over the years, so too did the profiles of timber mouldings used in the finishing process. As a result we are often asked to replicate small or large quantities of an existing profile that we do not stock. When a similar stock profile will not suffice, we are able to produce a replica of the original as a made to order product.

Non Stock Profiles

For non stock profiles, we will Initially try and source the product from an alternative supplier, this can sometimes be the quickest and most cost effective solution for the customer.

Non Stock Profiles will generally require new tooling. Made to order tooling will vary in price depending on size and complexity of profile, with costs upwards of $200.00 + GST.

Made to order tooling will add approximately 10 days to any production lead time.

Due to the set up costs of running non-stock profiles, the larger the quantity required, the more cost effective the run will be.

Timber: In most cases, a special profile will be made from one piece of timber. Sometimes complex shaped mouldings require more than one piece of timber to make the profile. This will add cost due to extra material and time taken.

Lead Time: Generally 2-3 Weeks (untreated)

Machine Set up Time: For all made to order Moulding runs, there will be a minimum machine set up charge of $80.00 or $140.00 + GST depending upon the profile concerned.

Standard Profiles, Non Stock Timber.

We are able to supply standard profiles in various different commercially available timbers, such as Pacific Rimu, Island Kauri & Clear Radiata Pine.

Lead Time: 2 Weeks (untreated). Supply issues and Sourcing of Some Exotic or Imported Timbers will sometimes affect lead times.

Machine Set up Time: For all made to order Moulding runs, there will be a minimum machine set up charge of $80.00 or $140.00 + GST depending upon the profile concerned.

Standard Profiles, Different Dimensions

In some instances it may be possible to Re-Machine a stock profile moulding down to a smaller size or shape.

Lead Time: 1-2 Weeks (untreated).This may vary depending on the quantity ordered

Machine Set up Time: For all made to order Moulding runs, there will be a minimum machine set up charge of $80.00 or $140.00 + GST depending upon the profile concerned.

Preservative Treatment

Mouldings that require preservative treatment (i.e for exterior use) will be treated to H3.1, unless the building code requires a greater level of treatment. Timber treated to level H3.1 is L.O.S.P treated. This process requires a lead time of around a week. All end and penetrating cuts made to L.O.S.P treated products should be re-treated manually with a post treatment preservative product, such as Metalex, prior to priming and installation. H3.2 timber, in most cases is treated prior to processing.

Finger Jointed Timber

For the majority of our products that are narrower than 140mm finished size, we use finger jointed Radiata Pine for our paint quality products. Finger-jointing timber enables greater recovery of raw timber product at the source by defecting out sub-standard grade material prior to the jointing process.

The result is a more dimensionally stable product with set lengths to minimise wastage at end use. For example, our Architrave lengths are 5.4 & 5.6m long, which will yield two sides and a top of a single door with minimal waste. This is more cost effective for you the Customer.

Radiata Pine "Clears" mouldings are available upon request as made to order product. See Standard profiles,Non Stock Timber, earlier this page.

Product Updates

We are continually increasing our standard range of profiles. If what you are looking for is not shown in this issue of our product guide, please call us for more information.

Care of Timber Products

Thu, 04 Aug 2011 03:35:00 GMT

Timber is a natural product, which is not only attractive but extremely versatile to work with. It's no surprise that despite many other materials being available that timber is still as popular as ever. By following some 'common sense' guidelines and some on going care, timber joinery, mouldings, turnings & other renovation products will give many years of faithful service.

Intended Use

It is important that the joinery or renovation product that you are purchasing is suitable for the intended end use. Some joinery will perform better and last longer in certain locations. For example, panel doors perform best when they are not exposed to the weather. Placing your joinery in an unsuitable location may void your warranty.

Please ask our sales personnel for advice before placing your order if you are unsure about the best product for your particular application.

Site Storage

Exterior Joinery:

Always store Joinery units upright and in a dry ventilated environment. Un-primed Joinery units require at least 1 coat of an oil based primer immediately upon reaching site prior to storage. Bungalow & Villa provide a priming service if required.

Interior Joinery:

Always store Joinery units upright and in a dry ventilated environment away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Special care should be taken on sites with heavy masonry content (i.e. concrete block / slab construction) as moisture from surrounding masonry will be absorbed by raw timber products, compromising directional stability (warping) of components. For the same reasons avoid excessive heat sources such as direct sun light or closed dry rooms.

Mouldings, Turnings & Other Timber Renovation Products:

All Mouldings and Timber products should always be stored in a dry ventilated environment away from direct sunlight. Mouldings should also be stored in such a way as they can not bow and warp.

Priming / Sealing

Exterior Joinery:

Bungalow & Villa recommends purchasing all exterior joinery products Factory Primed / Sealed.

Use only premium quality oil-based alkyd primers and sealers. Within 4 weeks of receiving your joinery, you will need to apply a minimum of 2 successive coats (preferably oil-based enamels) to all primed surfaces, paying special attention to all 'End Grain' surfaces. These are usually the tops andbottoms of doors and window sashes. These areas are where a large percentage of moisture uptake occurs and causes the most common of problems: Swelling, shrinkage and joint failure.

Interior Joinery:

For un-primed Joinery, prime all 6 surfaces of the product immediately upon reaching site. Follow on with the procedures outlined above as for exterior joinery.

Mouldings, Turnings & Other Timber Renovation Products:

For all Mouldings, Turnings and other Timber products , prime/seal all 6 surfaces of the product immediately upon reaching site. Follow on with the procedures outlined above as for Joinery products. All cuts should be sealed prior to installation. For LOSP treated products that are for exterior use, cuts will need to have an application of a timber preservative such at 'Metelex'.

Stain Quality Products

The above guidelines should also be followed for stain quaulity products. Exterior wood stains permeate the surface and work primarily by shedding liquid water from a water repellant surface. As a result, they perform best on vertical surfaces. When used on near horizontal suraces, they can be less effective and have a shorter life.

Timber Treatments

Softwoods, such as Radiata Pine require treatment with a preservative if they are to be used outside. Furthermore, different applications require different levels of treatment. Our product codes indicate whether a product is treated by a suffix 'T'. The treatment processes that we use are appropriate for the application of each product.

LOSP H3.1 Treated products will only accept an oil based Alkyd primer. Acrylic based primers will not fully adhere to the solvent based LOSP treatment. Successive top coats may be Acrylic or water based paints. If you are unsure of the treatment value of your product, please ask us prior to priming.

Cedar (while appearing soft) is technically a 'hard wood' and does not require treatment and is generally our preferred timber for window sashes and door leaves.

Installation

All Bungalow & Villa products require installation by suitably qualified personnel. Incorrect installation will result in disappointing and poor performancealong with a shortened life expectancy of the product concerned.

Sticking Double-Sash Windows?

Thu, 13 Oct 2011 23:57:00 GMT

One of the most common and frustrating properties of older double hung windows is their occasional refusal to open or slide smoothly. Not only is a sticking sash window annoying, but the strain imposed by forcing it puts additional loads on joints that may be weak already. There are several reasons why the sash may be sticking.

1. Overpainting. A freshly painted sash needs to be moved regularly while the sash is drying, or the wet paint will act as a glue. Years of painting it 'in situ' make the matters worse. Take a sharp craft knife and score around the sash, then work the blades of a wide paint scraper between the sash and the parting beads. Grasp the meeting rail and try shaking the sash from side to side to break the paint seal.

2. Misplaced beads. A sash may be difficult to move because a misplaced stop bead is virtually clamping it against the parting beads. Prise suspect beads from the frame and reposition them.

3. Seized pulley. If the pulley is not running freely, the friction will impede the movement of the sash cord. A drop of penetrating oil may free the pulley or you may find that it has been overprinted at some time - if so, disconnect the sash cord and remove the pulley which is normally fixed to the stile with two screws. Use paint stripper to dislodge the paint and lightly oil the pulley. New sash cords and pulleys are available from Bungalow and Villa.

4. Swollen Sash. During humid weather a timber window can expand considerably especially if the paintwork is in poor condition. If you have a sash that slides intermittently then wait for dry weather and prepare and paint it to seal the wood. A twisted sash will probably stick most of the time and it will usually exhibit signs of wear or rubbing. Take the distorted sash out of the frame and shave the worn areas with a plane. Before you reinstall it, lubricate the sash by rubbing a candle along its running surfaces.

5. Loose sash joints. The effects of weathering may cause glued joints to eventually work loose, showing wide gaps. As a temporary measure you could rake out any loose material and then fix the joint together with an L-shaped plate screwed into place. To make a more permanent repair the sash needs to be dismantle and re-glued.

Note - To remove the sash from the frame - you will need to remove the vertical timber beads (parting beads) that form a track for the sash to run in. This will enable you to swing each sash out of the window frame. There is a small pocket at the base of each weight compartment that provides access to the space behind the frame, allowing the weights to be removed and the cord cut.